Diamonds: Strong world market.Rapaport TradeWire – Friday, June 4, 2004
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News: Jewelry industry converging on Vegas with high expectations for
good show. Manufacturers expecting strong buying activity as retailers
stock up for holiday season. Retailers starting to realize diamond
prices are increasing. Three stone rings hot, right hand rings not.
HRD to open U.S. diamond grading laboratory. Israel May polished
exports up 19.6% to $662.6 million; rough imports up 38.9% to $409.9
million. Whitehall Q1 sales up 5.6% to $73 million. Aber Q1
sales reached $52.1 million; outlook on Diavik operations remains
positive.
Fancies: Overall fancy market looking very good as retail sales
improve and shortages of suitable rough push up polished prices.
Scarcity of larger well made fancies driving dealer demand for select
goods. Square cuts hot as usual. Pears and hearts moving nicely
especially in carat and larger, G+, VS+. Ovals improving with good
demand for 0.30-0.60, G+ VS-SI. Marquises making strong comeback with
extreme shortages of well made stones due to unavailability of rough.
=== SPECIAL VEGAS NOTICE ===========================================
=== RAPAPORT BREAKFAST - ONE-DAY FREE EDUCATIONAL PROGRAM ===
Monday, June 7, 2004, JCK Las Vegas Show - Rooms 105-106
8:00-10:00 AM "State of the Diamond Industry" - Martin Rapaport
10:30-11:30 AM "Research Trends to Build Your Business" - Ken Gassman
2:00-4:00 PM "Understanding the USA PATRIOT Act"- Cecilia Gardner, Esq
4:30-5:30 PM "The State of Training & Education" - Jay Lell
Seminars are provided free of charge with priority to Rapaport
Members. We encourage early registration as the seminars often sell
out. Please RSVP to conference@rapaport.com
REMINDER: Rapaport International Diamond Conference - Oct. 12, 2004
Waldorf Astoria Main Ballroom - Reserve Now! conference@rapaport.com
====================================================================
=== Retail Quote ===
“Differentiate what you are selling in such a powerful way that buying
anywhere else would strike your prospect as dumb.” Mark P. Moeller,
president of R.F. Moeller Jeweler, St. Paul, Minnesota, at the JCK
Show 2004.
=== World News ===
--- Israel's Polished Diamond Exports Up 20% in May
Israel's May net polished diamond exports rose 19.6% to $662.6
million. During the first five months of the year net polished exports
grew 20.6% to $2.810 billion.
Rough imports rose 38.9% to $409.9 million. Since the beginning of the
year rough imports rose 47.1% to $2.028 billion. Rough exports rose
28.6% to $283.0 million. For the first five months rough exports rose
48.1% to $1.248 billion.
Polished imports rose 2.5% to $280.6 million. Since the beginning of
the year they rose 4.8% to $1.296 billion.
Israel’s major polished export markets were: the U.S. 70%, Hong Kong
12% and Belgium 7%. Since the beginning of the year exports to the
U.S. rose 15%, to Hong Kong 49%, Switzerland 12%, Belgium 15% and
England 46%.
--- Aber Q1 Net Falls; Diavik “Continues to Perform Well”
Aber Diamond Corp. reported that first-quarter net income fell 46% to
$2.8 million because of income-tax expense and costs related to its
acquisition of a controlling interest in the fine jewelry and watch
retailer Harry Winston Inc.
For the first quarter ended April 30, Aber reported sales of $52.3
million, of which $42.2 million came from mining and $10.1 million
from Harry Winston. Year-earlier sales of $4.1 million were reported
before the August 2003 startup of commercial production from the
Diavik diamond mine and the April 2004 acquisition of 51% of Harry
Winston.
“Operations from the Diavik Mine continued to perform well during the
first quarter, with the process plant working comfortably ahead of
design capacity rates of 1.5 million tons” a year, the Toronto-based
company said in a statement.
Aber’s 40 percent share of Diavik resulted in the company taking in
615,000 carats of diamonds in the quarter ended March 31 against
440,000 carats in the quarter to December 31, 2003. The company
reduced its cost of production to $24 a carat from $34 a carat.
“Two rough diamond sales are scheduled for the second quarter,” Aber
said. “Given the expected shortage of rough available in the market
during the second half of the year, the outlook for this period, and
the remainder of the year, remains positive.”
Harry Winston plans to open its seventh and eight retail salons in the
next six months, one in Las Vegas and the other in Taipei, Taiwan. The
Taipei outlet will be the first in Asia beyond Winston’s locations in
Japan. “The outlook for the remainder of the year is positive” but
depends highly on economic conditions, Aber said.
--- Doris Duke Jewels Set Auction Records at Christie’s
Jewelry from the collection of socialite heiress Doris Duke was 100
percent sold at Christie’s New York during a glamorous evening
auction.
The sale garnered $11,964,176 doubling the high presale estimate and
making it the highest sale total ever for any private jewelry
collection sold at auction in the United States. It was also the third
highest total for a single-owner sale held globally during the past
ten years.
Bidding for the 111 lots, which took place over three hours was
intensely competitive. Four lots sold for over $1 million. The top lot
of the sale was for a Belle Époque diamond and pearl necklace by
Cartier, which sold for $2,359,500 — establishing a global record
auction price for a Cartier diamond necklace. A double strand emerald
bead necklace also set a world auction price record when it sold for
$1,127,500. A 19.72-carat rectangular cut DVS1 diamond from Tiffany &
Co. was the second highest lot of the evening selling for $1,261,900.
Buyers were predominantly from the U.S. with European and Asian buyers
actively purchasing as well. Most of the buying came from privates
although the trade did manage to win some lots. Proceeds from the sale
benefit the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation.
--- JCK Luxury Show Update
Exhibitors at the JCK Luxury show June 2 through 4 report strong
activity on day three after a relatively quiet first two days.
Expectations are high for the final day.
During the first two days, some exhibitors reported that buyers did
not turn up for appointments. However, exhibitors with booths near the
entrance saw somewhat stronger buying activity than those who are
harder to find.
Exhibitors expect more success at the JCK show starting June 6, as
buyers who have been attending the Couture Jewellery show in Phoenix
make their way to Las Vegas. The Phoenix show will compete directly
with the JCK show when it moves to Las Vegas in 2005.
Several trends are apparent at the Luxury show: Chandelier earrings
are being replaced by drop earrings in simple designs. Circles and
chains, color stones with diamond accents, and clean-lined jewelry
with movement are prominent. Three-stone jewelry is hot; right-hand
rings are not. Princesses are strong across the board.
In a speech to retailers and exhibitors on June 2, Paula Peterson of
Crown Luxury Consulting identified key jewelry trends: Multiple
strands in varying lengths are hot, as are line earrings, teardrops,
drop diamond pendants, pearls, burnished gold, diamond cuffs and
brooches. She added that pink stones are being replaced by blue
stones.
--- Frederick Goldman, Firestone Group in Jewelry Venture
Frederick Goldman Inc. and Firestone Group formed a joint venture to
acquire diamonds and to produce and market fine jewelry, the companies
said.
The New York-based venture combines Goldman’s marketing, merchandising
and distribution abilities with Firestone’s interests in acquiring
loose diamonds and manufacturing jewelry, the companies said.
Firestone has access to rough through its alliance with Star Group of
Antwerp.
The new venture offers major jewelry retailers a vertical solution,
the companies said, adding that its products would include bridal and
fashion diamond jewelry.
Frederick Goldman develops bridal and fine jewelry brands including
ArtCarved, Diana Classic and The Keepsake jewelry line offered by
Wal*Mart.
--- China Lifts Restrictions on Retail and Distribution
A new law in China opened the country’s retail and distribution
sectors to foreign investors, presaging faster growth in an already
rapidly expanding area of the economy, The Wall Street Journal
reported. Beginning in December, foreign retailers can do business
without Chinese partners and set up stores anywhere in the country.
The law removes asset and sales requirements that had barred all but
the world's largest retail chains from entering China. And it loosens
a rule that all store openings needed central government clearance.
--- High Prices Slow Tanzanite Sales at GLDA Show
Exhibitors at the GLDA show at Las Vegas, report that shortages in
tanzanite rough supply have driven prices through the roof, resulting
in slow sales despite a strong demand. Rough that cost $300 a gram a
year and a half ago is today selling for $700. This has resulted in
the price of cut and polished goods rising from around $270 a carat a
year and a half ago to as much as much as $400 a carat today. The
upward pressure on prices is also still strong. One dealer noted that
just a short while ago at the Tucson show, polished tanzanite was
selling at $300 a carat.
Pink sapphires are extremely hot as they have been for some time. Many
dealers stated that they just did not have enough stocks to keep up
with demand. Blue sapphires too are in very good demand, with
non-heat-treated goods fetching in the region of $3,000 a carat
compared to between $500 and $1,500 for heat-treated stones.
Other colored stones that have done well at the show include
spessartite garnets, large alexandrites and apatite.
--- India Clears Star Diamond of Netherlands to Form Venture
India’s Foreign Investment Promotion Board cleared the proposal of the
Star Diamond group of the Netherlands to set up Firestar Diamond Pvt
Ltd., a joint venture with Firestone of India, sources told Sify.com
of India. The venture plans to import rough and sell it to Indian
manufacturers, traders and exporters. The sources said Firestar also
would establish a factory to polish diamonds, outsource production of
polished diamonds, export them from India, and sell them to jewelers.
The venture will not be allowed to sell at retail.
--- Israel's Diamond Controller Named Deputy Head of Ministry
Israel Diamond Controller Udi Sheintal was named senior deputy
director-general of the Ministry of Industry, Trade and Labor. He
continues as diamond controller and director of the ministry’s
Diamonds, Precious Stones and Jewelry Administration, posts he has
held since 1998. Sheintal has played a key role in creating the
Kimberley Process standards and implementing them in Israel.
--- Antwerp Diamond Conference to Focus on Synthetic Diamonds
The Third Antwerp Diamond Conference, set for November 15 and 16, will
focus on how gem-quality synthetic diamonds threaten consumer
confidence in natural diamonds. Peter Meeus, managing director of the
Antwerp Diamond High Council, host of the conference, says banning
trade in synthetics on diamond bourses is ineffective. Instead, he
says, the industry must distinguish natural diamonds from synthetics
“to educate the public about the uniqueness and wonder of natural
diamonds.” Conference topics will include producing and detecting
synthetics, marketing natural diamonds alongside synthetics, legal and
ethical issues, and policies.
=== Retail News ===
--- Whitehall Posts Loss, Names Nicodemus-Volker EVP of Merchandise
Whitehall Jewellers reported that its first-quarter net loss widened
to $3.7 million from $2.8 million in the year-earlier period. Sales
for the quarter ended April 30 climbed 5.6% to $73 million from $69.1
million. Separately, Whitehall named Debbie Nicodemus-Volker, a
merchandising executive with more than 25 years of experience in
retailing, to the post of executive vice president of merchandise.
--- Tiffany to Open 51st and 52nd Japan Stores, in Tokyo and Osaka
Tiffany & Co. said it would open its 51st and 52nd Japanese stores, in
Tokyo and Osaka. The 693-square-meter (7,450-square-foot) Tokyo store,
in the Marunouchi area, is located in the Meiji Yasuda Life Building.
The 697-square-meter (7,500-square-foot) Osaka store, in the
Nishi-Umeda area, opens in November in the Herbis Plaza Ent.
=== Stock Watch ===
Thurs. Thurs. Change($) Change(%)
June 3 May 27
Blue Nile (NILE) $39.98 $33.20 $0.78 2.3%
Finlay(FNLY) $19.39 $20.00 -$0.61 -3.1%
Friedman's(FRDM.PK) $3.45 $2.90 $0.55 19.0%
Neiman(NMGA) $52.28 $51.39 $0.89 1.7%
Nordstrom(JWN) $40.27 $40.65 -$0.38 -0.9%
JC Penney(JCP) $35.88 $35.49 $0.39 1.1%
Signet(SIGY) $63.77 $63.45 $0.32 0.5%
Tiffany(TIF) $35.91 $35.02 $0.89 2.5%
Wal-Mart(WMT) $56.60 $55.97 $0.63 1.1%
Whitehall(JWL) $8.00 $8.11 -$0.11 -1.4%
Zale(ZLC) $55.26 $54.46 $0.80 1.5%
Dow Jones Avg. 10195.91 10205.20 -9.29 -0.1%
=== Events ===
--- ICA to Release Part 2 of Gemstone Image Library at JCK
ICA GemBureau will release the second part of its three-part digital
slide library of gemstones at JCK. The group released Part 1 in
February and Part 3 is due in September. ICA GemBureau will make the
content available to its members as well as the trade press and
general media. The new slide series will be available to the trade
press at ICA’s JCK booth. At JCK, the ICA will share exhibition space
with CIBJO, the World Jewelry Confederation, in Booth 114 in the
Foyer.
--- Sarin to Update Diamond Analyzers at JCK
Sarin Technologies will launch a number of new computerized diamond
analyzers at JCK. Sarin will introduce the latest version of
DiaScribe, including a new viewer that enables users to immediately
view their diamond inscriptions on screen without a microscope or
loupe. Another improved product on display: the Brilliant Eye “S”
Series, an on-the-counter platform that enables retailers to show
images of a stone in an animated display and quickly create a colorful
diamond report.
--- GIA to Hold Career Fairs in July and October
The Gemological Institute of America has scheduled career fairs for
Friday, July 23, at the Jacob Javits Center in New York and Friday,
Oct. 15, at the GIA’s Robert Mouawad Campus in Carlsbad, California.
=== Africa News ===
--- Kimberley Process Ex-Chairman to Lead Review of DRC
Abbey Chikane, immediate past chairman of the Kimberley Process, will
lead a review mission to the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The
mission will inspect the DRC’s diamond production and trade and will
examine whether nation is complying with the process’s worldwide
diamond-certification standards.
--- South Africa Sees Rise in Jewelry Making Due to Beneficiation
South Africa will increase its jewelry manufacturing interests as it
moves to boost local mineral beneficiation, Deputy Minister of
Minerals and Energy Lulu Xingwana said at a briefing reported by
Mining Weekly Online. The deputy minister’s department is seeking to
amend the Mining Rights Acts to ensure that precious metals and
diamonds are offered locally before being exported. As part of the
project, 16 women from rural areas recently traveled to India, where
an Indian company, Tata, will teach them jewelry and ceramic
manufacturing. These women will return and train other South Africans,
Mining Weekly Online reported.
=== Mining News ===
--- Waldman of Israel Gets Marketing Rights to Sierra Leone Mine
Waldman Diamond Group of Ramat Gan, Israel, secured the rights to
market the output of the Magna Egoli mine in Sierra Leone. Waldman
recently received the first shipment from the mine, which is located
on the Sewa River and produces gem-quality stones. The diamonds in the
shipment ranged in value from $225 to $280 per carat, and some of the
larger stones weighed about five carats each.
--- De Beers Gets Permit, Clearing Way for First Canada Project
De Beers received a water license from Canada, clearing the way for
the company to start construction at the Snap Lake site in the
Northwest Territories. Snap Lake is the first project in Canada for
which De Beers has received clearance.
--- Lesotho’s Lets’eng Mine Sells $3.3 Million of Diamonds
Lets'eng Diamond Mine in northern Lesotho sold $3.3 million of
diamonds in Antwerp in May, according to South Africa’s Business
Report. Last year, the mine sold $5.6 million of diamonds in the same
market. The Lets'eng mine restarted production in April 2003 after
being idle since De Beers ceased operations there in 1982.
--- Mining Boost in Madhya Pradesh, India, as Major Firms to Survey
Diamond mining in Madhya Pradesh is likely to gain momentum with the
entry of multinationals, Rediff.com of India reported. ACC Rio Tinto,
De Beers, BHP Minerals of Canada, and National Mineral Development
Corp. are set to survey and explore diamond mines in the Panna,
Chhattarpur, Tikamgarh, Sagar, Angor and Majhgawan areas of the state.
--- True North Begins Regal Ridge, Yukon, Emerald Exploration
True North Gems said its 2004 exploration program, an investment of
$1.6 million (C$2.2 million), is underway at its Regal Ridge emerald
property in the Finalyson Lake District of Canada’s Yukon Territory.
Gem processing will begin this month, after the pilot processing plant
has been modified. Processing will begin with 1,500 tons of
mineralized material stockpiled from 2003.
--- Diamonds North Acquires 900,000 Acres in Northern Manitoba
Diamonds North Resources acquired 900,000 acres in northern Manitoba,
Canada. The exploration licenses cover an area of the Superior Craton
with diamond potential.
=== INDIAN DIAMOND MARKET UPDATE ===
--- BUYING FOR VEGAS TAPERS OFF ---
Polished buying for the JCK Las Vegas show has tapered off and the
market is waiting to see how the show itself turns out. A good show is
widely expected to stimulate demand for polished.
In the rough market, demand is good as manufacturers seek stocks to
keep their factories running. But the high prices have kept demand
from translating into really good movement.
--- POLISHED:
-1 point: Very good demand: $100-$200 whites.
Good demand: $120-$180 white natts.
Fair demand: $200-$250 whites; $50-$55 whites; $125-$175 OW
TTLB & TTLC.
-2 point: Very good demand: $150-$250 whites.
Good demand: $260-$320 whites.
Fair demand: $325-$360 whites; $70-$80 whites; $125-$175
white natts; $150-$200 TTLB & TTLC.
2-7 point: Good demand: $200-$360 whites.
Fair demand: $200-$275 +8 white natts.
8-18 point: Very good demand: $400-$525 whites.
Good demand: $250-$375 whites.
Fair demand: $400-$450 OW LC; $250-$325 TTLC, $200-$250 OW
TTLB & TTLC.; +14-point $525-$575 OW TTLC; $200-$350 white
natts; $90-$110 whites.
20 points: Good demand: $150-$200 whites; $300-$350 whites.
Fair demand: $200-$300 whites.
25 points: Very good demand: $175-$225 whites.
Fair demand: $250-$400 whites.
33 points: Good demand: $425-$550 whites; $225-$300 TTLB.
Fair demand: $375-$425 whites.
50 points: Good demand: $800-$1,200 whites; $400-$700 whites.
Fair demand: $200-$400 whites; $450-$600 OW TTLC.
75 points: Good demand: $700-$1,300 whites.
1 carat+: Very good demand: $1,000-$4,000 whites; $1,000-$5,000 +2 ct
I+ color.
Good demand: $800-$1,000 whites; $500-$800 whites & white
natts.
Fair demand: $200-$500 whites.
Princess: -3 point: Good demand: $150-$250 whites.
+3 point: Fair demand: $200-$250 whites.
+9-18 point: Good demand: $225-$300 whites; +14 point: $275 -
$325 whites.
20 points: Fair demand: $300-$335 whites.
33 points: Fair demand: $500-$600 whites.
50 points: Good demand: $600-$1,000 whites.
1 carat+: Good demand: $1,000-$1,200 whites.
Marquise: -6 point: Good demand: $250-$310 whites.
Fair demand: $400-$450 whites.
+7-18 point: Good demand: $175-$250 whites; +14 points $250-
$300 whites.
Fair demand: $500-$600 whites.
20 points: Fair demand: $275-$325 whites.
25 points: Fair demand: $325-$375 whites; $425-$450 whites.
33 points: Fair demand: $400-$475 whites.
50 points: Good demand: $550-$650 whites; $850-$1000 whites.
1 carat+: Good demand: $800-$1,200 whites.
Tapers & Baguettes: Good demand: $225-$300 2mm-2.5mm whites; $300-$350
2.5mm-3mm whites; $150-$225 +2mm-3mm whites.
Fair Demand: $575-$650 +5mm whites.
--- ROUGH:
1-7 point: Good demand: $24-$50 & $65-$103 sawn princess; $16-$34 &
$61-$101 rounds; $35-$79 crystals.
Fair movement: $11-$26 & $45-$86 makeables; $75-$105
sawables.
8-20 point: Fair demand: $40-$55 & $79-$119 rounds; $20-$36 & $65-$108
crystals; $25-$53 & $75-$114 sawn princess; $35-$78
clivage.
Fair movement: $25-$46 & $73-$110 makeables; $25-$45 LB
flats; $36-$55 white flats; $31-$51 baguettes.
21-49 point: Fair demand: $98-$125 rounds; $100-$140 sawn princess;
$78-$115 crystals; $150-$220 rounds.
Fair movement: $58-$97 clivage & $39-$61 LB flats; $47-$73
white flats; $38-$78 baguettes.
0.5-1 carat: Good demand: $79-$129 & $185-$225 rounds; $115-$167 sawn
princess; $78-$138 crystals.
Fair movement: $105-$175 makeables; $60-$95 LB flats; $75-
$105 white flats; $47-$85 baguettes.
1-3 carat: Good demand: $115-$200 clivage; $120-$173 rounds; $909-
$1,254 makeables & rounds +3 carats.
Fair movement: $200-$310 makeables; $85-$120 flats; $187-
$283 OW; $150-$225 sawables.
========================================
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